Fergus McCarroll and myself headed up the Aiguille du Midi lift early on Tuesday with the idea of climbing Mont Blanc du Tacul for a few reasons, mainly to scope out the ‘3 Monts Route’ to the summit of Mont Blanc but also to check out some lines that we’re planning to ski in the Winter.
However, having descended the Midi arête and trudged through 40cm of windblown fresh snow towards the base of the Tacul we noticed a few things that made us reconsider. The first thing was obvious; no track. The second was the sight of a few avalanches on the face which had been triggered by the warm and windy conditions following the snowy weather a few days ago.
So we turned back and decided to climb the Arête des Cosmiques instead.
The route begins from the Abri Simond hut which we were close to anyway, so within 20minutes we had begun the scramble up the rocky ridge that eventually leads back to the Aiguille du Midi station. On the way we bumped into top boys Hamish and Alfie who we continued the climb with. They had some pros that came in handy as we didn’t bring any protection with us because we’re silly.